A suggestion you may consider……

Another clear finish you can try AS YOUR LAST FINISH is “Tough as Tile”- “Paint and tile finish” to the top of your counter top. Tough as tile is meant to fix up ugly tubs wit a white paint. The kit includes a can of paint and a can of epoxy. How it works when you are painting a tub is you mix the two together and paint your tub.

It is industrial strength epoxy, and could be the perfect solution for your countertop.

You would just use the clear epoxy. It turns out glossy, so if you do not want gloss, this may not be for you.

Before you begin, be sure to really sand your countertops, because you really want it to stick well. This epoxy is what I would use for countertops, because it is strong!

If you end up using this, be sure to use a foam brush to apply the clear gloss, but also leave yourself almost 2 weeks of drying time.

I used it on a dresser top, and I left my piece for a week to dry, (which I thought was enough time), only to stack furniture on top of my piece and it left marks.

Because this clear gloss is meant for your bathtub it is almost impossible to sand after you are finished, so be sure to apply it with a foam brush.

I will use it again, but the next time I will be sure to let my piece dry for a longer time.

Hope this helps…. Meranda

I am very sorry I didn’t get back to you earlier, I haven’t checked my comments in quite some time. By this time your project might already be finished.

What I have used in the past was a color almost close to the Olympic Bronze UL150-17 In behr paint. Looking on the Olympic Gold site, (It is kind of hard to tell) but I would suggest the colors like Ginger c21-6, or Bronze Eucalyptus B21-6. If you get a color around that range, you will get the effect of a burl, because you are going to be adding a poly stain on top of the design after it dries, which is the product that gives the illusion of wood.

The product I used to create the burl design is an artists oil in a tube of paint called Winton Oil Color in Burnt Umber. I used paint thinner, but turpentine works just the same. Any artists oil paint used for wall paintings that you frame will work well. A Burnt Umber is a common color so you should find it in a local crafts store, or on ebay.

For the stain I used a product called product called Minwax Polyshades, so basically it is wood stain mixed in with polyurethane. It is a one step process. For me, I can layer it on, and it gives the look of wood. I have found that high gloss looks great only if it is very even. You can get an even finish by using a foam brush, and brushing on the stain.

For me, the best advice I can give is just to go ahead and try it. Don’t think to much, just go for it. You may want to try a small jewelry box first so you can master the technique before you do your countertops.

I have enjoyed looking at some of your painted furniture, thank you! You are very creative! You have inspired me to have a go at a Faux Walnut Burl finish on a countertop.

I am in Australia and we do not have Behr paint here.
Could you please tell me whether the Olympic Gold colour you suggest is an oil based or latex based paint?
Also I presume the thinner that you use for the artist’s oils is just mineral turpentine?
And when you talk about a wood finish such as Maple Gloss or walnut from Polyshades, do you mean a tinted high gloss varnish?

I look forward to hearing from you and I’m eager to produce such a masterpiece as you (hopefully!!!),

Many thanks,

Su Short